Electronic Trigger Frame Installation

2. After you've removed your old trigger you can now start to fit your new trigger. The first step is to fit the pin that the trigger pivots on. This pin goes through the smaller top hole.

Our experience is that some electric 98 pins fit perfectly, and some fit tightly. This is because some electric 98's use slightly larger pins. This difference in pin size can make sliding the pin through difficult. If your 98 has a bigger pin we suggest using a small round metal file to just open up the hole a bit. The objective is to have the trigger move freely on the pin, but not be sloppy. Drilling the hole could make the fit too loose, but filing it lets you open up the hole to exactly the right size. A small round file can be purchased at any hardware store for just a few dollars. If you cant get a file, I found that just working the pin back and forth through the hole can help, as well as using a little oil. While it may be tighter at first, it will loosen with time and use.

Once you know the pivot pin fits you can install the Fang into your marker. Lets take a look at the picture below.

2a When adjusting the trigger I like to start is the post-travel set screw #1. I like to make sure that this set screw starts out flush with the trigger face. The fang trigger is pretty thin, so starting it out flush will make all the rest of the adjustments that much easier. It will also make the trigger look and feel best when you are finished.

2b. The second screw I adjust is the microswitch set screw #2. This screw presses up against the micro switch. I adjust it in clockwise to the point where it will actuate the microswitch with very little pull. Once that's done, I try my best to find a nice balance between the pre-travel set screw #3 and the microswitch set screw #2. The pre-travel set screw #3 pushes the trigger back toward the actuation point, and take the forward play out of the trigger movement.

Its been my experience that getting the adjustment perfect can take some trial and error. Meaning that your first adjustment may be too close, and safety may not work. You can only really know this with the gun back together.

If this is the case, you will need to open up the gun again and re-adjust the trigger. It took me about 3 attempts to get mine perfect. The goal is to have a nice short trigger pull that utilizes all three set screws. Its a bit of an art to do it well, but just give it some thought, and I'm sure you'll get it right.

2c. You'll also notice that I have removed the trigger spring from the front of the trigger. By removing this spring I am making the trigger feel super light, and I am relying on the microswitch to return my trigger. Another way to have a lighter pull is to replace the spring with a lighter spring. I typically use springs out of ink pens. I cut them to the same length as the stock spring. They typically work really well. Again, its up to you. Personally I like using no spring. Some people warn me about how it will make the microswitch wear out more quickly....but I really don't care about that. I want the lightest pull possible.

If you adjust your trigger really short and you remove the spring, your gun may fire fully automatic. For some of you thats a good thing. For some of you its not. You decide what's best for you.

Tip**

If you want to make sure that your set screws stay put, its a good idea to use some type of thread locker on all three of the set screws. I have had some people tell me that blue loctite is good, and others tell me that a silicon caulk like material is good too. Again, its up to you. I personally use BLUE loctite. Its holds everything pretty well.

3. Once you have that set screw adjusted you are pretty much ready to go. You can put your 98 back together and try it out. As you put your body halves back together pay close attention to the trigger in relation to the body. I have noticed that on some Tippmann's the body halves can pinch the trigger. Especially on those that have Tippmann's Camo finish, or any other added finish to the outside of the gun.This added finish take room away from the trigger slot, and can cause the trigger to bind. I have found that loosening the two body screws closest to the trigger can free up the trigger. If you feel pretty handy you could use a metal file to make the fit even better.

Final Thoughts

Some of the things I've noticed about 98's is that every one is different. We realized that there was going to be differences in guns, so designed the trigger using 5 different 98's. We designed the Fang to work and fit on all of these as best we could. Over time we have realized that Tippmann's tolerances are extremely loose. Meaning that some of their pin sizes differ from gun to gun. Their pin placement differs from gun to gun. And the width between the two body half's that the trigger comes out of varies from gun to gun.

All this means that installing this trigger may take some custom fitting on your part. The perfect trigger has a snug, but free moving fit. We have done our best to achieve this. However, remember that you are installing this trigger onto a $150 marker that has a dye cast body. This means that each marker will vary a bit in dimension, and a good fit is based on luck of the draw, and how much time you put in to making it fit perfectly to your marker.

I hope that your installation goes well, and hope that these instructions have helped. If you have any questions or concerns please let me know. Please contact me at todd@techtpaintball.com

Thanks for your support,

Todd

TechT Paintball