Installation Instructions A5 and X7 (98 or BT see below)

1a. Remove your air tank from the marker.

1. When install this on to a X7 and A5, you will first need to remove your air supply line (tomb stone) from the valve. This is down by removing the screw and pin that hold it attached to the marker.

2. Remove the two body pins that hold the back cap to the marker. Remove the back cap. At this time you can remove the hammer spring and spring guide.

3. Remove the pins that hold the trigger frame in place, and remove the trigger frame.

4. We are about to slide the valve out the back of the body, but first check to make sure that your velocity adjusting screw is screwed into the valve far enough so that it does not catch on the side of the body as we slide out the valve. You can screw it all the way it....or all the way out. Both work fine.

5. Slide the valve and hammer assymbly out the back of the body. I have found that holding the body with the rear of the marker facing the ground, and shaking the marker in a way that the movement of the hammer helps slide the valve out works pretty well. If you dont do this you may need to grab on to the back of the hammer with a pair of needle nose plyers. However you do it....you need to remove the valve and hammer from the back of the marker.

6. Lubricate your new hammer. TechT Gun Sav Grease or TechT Gun Drops will work great for this. I do not suggest using a grease like Dow55, Dow33, Sleek, or Dye Grease. These are all too thick and will slow down the hammer too much. If you dont have anything else, the Tippmann Gun Oil that came with your marker will work fine. If you don't have that, Hoppes gun oil will work fine and that can be found at most stores. Once you have the lube, I suggest applying a nice thin layer to the outside of the Zero Kick Hammer body and front oring.

7. At this point its a good idea to clean out the inside of your marker as well. I suggest using paper towel and the backside of a wooden kitchen spoon to help you clean deep down inside the body of the marker. The cleaner it is, the better your marker will shoot. Dont forget to clean your breech and ball detent. Once its all clean, apply a thin layer of lube to inside of the body where the hammer will slide.

8. At this point we are going to put everything back into the marker. Before we do, we need to check the valve to make sure we didnt move the oring and spring that lives in the valve. If the oring did come out of its groove, you need to make sure that the valve pin, spring and valve oring are all in their proper place and that the oring is sitting correctly down into its groove in the valve.

9. Once its all in place correctly, ensure that the front bolt is slid onto the front of the powertube, the linkage arm is inserted into the front bolt, and gently start the front bolt, linkage arm and valve into the back of the marker. When re-installing the valve, the main thing you don't want to do is push on the back of the valve pin. Doing this will force the valve spring to push the valve oring out of place, and doing this will make hooking up the tomb stone later pretty difficult. So when I just about get the valve totally into the marker, I insert the linkage arm into the new hammer, and using a large allen key or screw driver I pull the valve and hammer into the marker by pulling on the valve from the bottom of the marker body. I typically use the allen key or screw driver and place it up into the valve where the tomb stone goes and pull everything in to place. If the powertube doesnt want to move in the body easily, you may need to clean and lube the outside of the powertube.

Getting the valve correctly in place is a two part process. First I pull forward on the air inlet of the valve and once its as far forward as I can get it, I then put the screw drive behind the back of the powertube and push it forward the rest of the way. Be careful not to damage the back of the powertube when pushing the valve into place. Be GENTLE.

10. Once its in place you have completed the hardest part of the install. Re-check the valve to make sure your valve oring is still in its groove, and then re-install the tomb stone back into the bottom of the valve. Insert the screw and pin that holds it in place.

11. Re-attach your trigger frame to the marker.

12. Pull the trigger and push forward on the back of the hammer. This will allow the hammer to go forward, and make installing the hammer spring, spring guide and back cap much easier.

13. Re-install the hammer spring, spring guide and back cap.

14. Re-install/ re-adjust the velocity adjusting screw.

15. Go shoot and adjust your velocity back to your desired FPS using the velocity adjusting screw. You should tine tune it over a chrono before you play.

16. Apply the TechT sticker to the outside of your loader.

Installation Instructions 98's, Alpha Blacks or BT's

If you are unsure of how to tear down your 98 style marker you may consider purchasing our Tippmann 98 : 101 Airsmithing DVD. It will cover how to tear down and maintain the marker correctly. If you are comfortable working on your marker.....here we go.

1a. Remove your air tank from the marker.

1. Remove all the body screws and bottom line adaptor screws so that we can take the marker halves apart.

2. Seperate the two halves.

3. Remove your old hammer, and clean and lube both halves of the marker body where the hammer typically slides.

4. Lubricate your new hammer. Our Gun Sav Grease or Gun Drops will work great for this. I do not suggest using a grease like Dow55, Dow33, Sleek, or Dye Grease. These are all too thick and will slow down the hammer too much. If you dont have anything else, the Tippmann Gun Oil that came with your marker will work fine. If you don't have that, Hoppes gun oil will work fine and that can be found at most stores. Once you have the lube, I suggest applying a nice thin layer to the outside of the Zero Kick Hammer body and front oring.

5. Combine the hammer and linkage arm together and place the hammer into the body.

6. Ensure that the ball detent, bottom line screws, trigger and sear springs, elbow latch and spring, rear sight, and any other parts are all in there respected spots.

7. Carefully combine the body halves. This can be tricky to get perfect on the first shot. So be careful. If they dont seem to want to go together correctly of there is a gap somewhere at the end, you probably had something move on you and you probably need to take it apart again and ensure everything is in place.

8. Re-install all your body screws and bottom line screws.

9. Cock the marker, and air it up. Test fire, re-chrono.....go play!!!

10. Apply the TechT sticker to the outside of your loader.

If you have any questions about the install or have any issues please contact me at todd@techtpaintball.com or call 901-258-1976

If you feel like I left something out please email me at todd@techtpaintball.com

If have any trouble getting your marker to get up to velocity please contact me at todd@techtpaintball.com or call 901-258-1976 before you go and post on a forum that its not working.

Trouble shooting:

Marker will not re-cock correctly:

1. Ensure that the front hammer oring is in place and that it is well lubricated. If that doesnt work, you may have a damaged powertube. Look at the back side of the powertube for cracks or chips.

2. Ensure that your hammer spring is strong enough to open the valve. We suggest using the spring that comes with the zero kick hammer to start with. While it is shorter than the stock hammer spring, it is stiffer and provides more force on the hammer. If you have issues with re-cocking some people have tried using their stock hammer spring and they worked well when the spring that comes with the ZKH does not.

3. If you are using an aftermarket metal powertube, you may need to check the fit of the hammer tip to the back of the powertube. If the fit is too tight, it would restrict the hammer from hitting the valve. If its too loose, it could cause the gun to not re-cock correctly. So making sure there is a good fit there is important. We have started using softer orings on our hammer, the stock hammer oring is harder. In some re-cocking issues we have seen that removing the soft oring from the ZKH and replacing it with the harder oring from your stock hammer could help.

4. In some cases recocking issues are due to the sear spring not being stiff enough. We are now providing you with two small springs that could replace your stock sear spring. Using a stiffer spring under the sear will allow the sear to return up faster, and catch the hammer more quickly. If you are having recocking issues I recommend that try using the stiffer of the two sear spring replacments first. See how that works for you.

Marker will not achieve high enough FPS.

1. The Zero Kick Hammer is not designed to shoot over 300 FPS. Thats not to say it can't. If your velocity is low try opening up your velocity adjusting screw so that the power tube is wide open. Totally removing the screw will allow air to escape, hense lowering your velocity. So keep the screw in place, just back it out.

2. Change your hammer spring to a fresh one. Over time the springs loose strength. If you dont have a new spring you can visit your local hardware store and pick up a fix for a weak spring. The fix that I like best is using a set screw and placing it down into the back of the hammer where the spring typcally sits. Using a 10-32 or 10-whatever, thread pitch doesnt matter, set screw will add compression to the system. You may want to get a few different length set screws as you wont know exactly what size works best until you test fire.

I HOPE ALL THIS HELPS, and I HOPE YOU LOVE YOUR ZERO KICK HAMMER. IF you have a good experience please feel free to post on A5og.net, X7og.net, 98og.net, pbnation.com, or pbreview.com with your results.

If you are having trouble with getting your hammer to work correctly please contact me directly before making a post online. Again I can typcally walk you through a fix over the phone. As with any new product we tried to catch all the bugs, but some may surface with time. I would personally like to squash any problems as they arise. AGAIN, please call 901-258-1976 or email todd@techtpaintball.com with issues before making a post online.

Thanks Guys,
Todd

TechT

The TechT Zero Kick Hammer will work with: