The
Teardown
Remove the cyclone feed
from the marker. This is done by loosening and removing the screw
opposite the cyclone feed. This screw is called the feeder-housing
bolt.
Disconnect the air supply
line (cylinder hose) to the cyclone feed. You can typically just
pull on the line and it will come loose from the barb without damaging
the hose.
With a small Phillips
head screwdriver remove the screw that holds the cyclone paddles
(sprockets) to the cyclone axle. Using a small flat head screwdriver
GENTLY pry up the sprockets off the axle. The paddles come out the
top of the cyclone housing; sometimes they require some prying to
remove them.
With a small Phillips
head screwdriver remove the four screws on the bottom of the cyclone
feed. This will allow you to remove the bottom cover that protects
the internals of the cyclone.
Remove the spring arm
that presses up against the axle by pulling it upwards.
Separate the axle, ratchet,
and cycle assembly from the cyclone feed housing. Then separate
the piston rod from the cylinder.
Slide apart the ratchet
and axle
Now using a pick or punch
tool, punch out the ratchet pin that holds the ratchet and cylinder
piston rod together. You will want to compress the spring and collar
to have a clear look at the pin.
***If you have the vortex
mod currently installed and you are trying to now install the lightening
rod, then you will need to take a punch tool and hammer out the
pin that holds the ratchet and piston rod together. I do not suggest
using anything other than a punch and hammer, as the wrong tools
could damage your ratchet.
Hammer the pin back out the same side of the ratchet that you put it in.
Clean out the slot in
the ratchet where your old piston rod used to be. Any dirt or grime
in this slot will inhibit the performance of your loader.
Place the piston spring
and black spring guide over the Lightening Rod, and then place the
Lightening Rod in the slot in the ratchet where your old piston
used to be.
Use the New
Silver Pin that came with the Lightening Rod to re-connect
the ratchet and rod.
Going through
the thicker side of ratchet slot, carefully line up the hole of
the ratchet and hole for the bushing, insert the smooth end the
pin first and the crimped in last. Gently hammer the pin securly
into the ratchet.
With the ratchet and
Lightening Rod combined, its time to combine the axle and ratchet.
Lubricate the axle and
ratchet. Lube the end of the axle where it goes through the ratchet.
The teeth of the axle where they touch the ratchet tooth. The top,
bottom and inside of the ratchet where the axle goes through.The
better lubricated the parts are, the easier they will install and
the better they will work. The objective is to have as little friction
as possible. We suggest grease like Dye Lube, or Shocker Lube to
do this. Lithium grease seems to work too. Oil typically will not
protect the parts enough. The only returns we have had are from
those people that used oil to lubricate the parts. Use grease.
Now slide the axle through
the ratchet making sure that the groove in the spring guide lines
up with the side of the axle When pushing the axle through the ratchet
you may need to use something to compress the spring guide a little
in order to get the axle all the way in the ratchet. Try not to
force it to much as this could damage the spring guide. The axle
and ratchet need to go together so that the flats on the axle catch
with the tooth on the ratchet.
***Lubricate the oring
(lip seal) on the end of the Lightening Rod. This seal crucial to
the performance of your loader. If this seal is un-lubricated, worn
out, or missing, your loader will not work correctly. We suggest Gun Sav Grease to be used on the Lightening Rod seal. Other greases may be too thick. Oil will work, but not as well as a good thin grease.
Place the piston housing
back over the piston rod.
Insert your ratchet,
axle and Lightening Rod assembly into the cyclone housing so that
the axle shaft is sticking back up through the cyclone housing.
Line the piston housing
up correctly with the little groove in the cyclone housing. To do
this it means that you will have to compress the piston rod spring
a bit. In the end the cylinder tube should fit flush in the housing.
Re-attach the paddles
(sprockets). The skinnier sprocket goes on bottom, and the wider
sprocket goes on top. They only slide on to the axle one way, so
make sure they are correct when you start pushing them on to the
axle You may notice that there is a tight fit when trying to install
the top axle That’s ok, just get it on as best you can, and
then install the screw that holds the paddles in place. As you tighten
the screw it will push the paddles on the rest of the way. The screw
needs to be snug, not crazy tight. If the screw vibrates loose try
applying a little BLUE LOCTITE to the screw. That should keep it
in place.
Reinstall the spring
arm back into the cyclone housing. Make sure it is securely in place,
and where is contacts the axle is well lubricated. Again, less friction
means more performance. Over time this spring may wear a groove
on the side of the ratchet. The groove is normal wear and should
not negatively effect the performance of the vortex mod.
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