NON-Electronic Trigger Frame Installation

2. After you've removed your old trigger you can now start to fit your new trigger. The first step is to fit the pin that the trigger pivots on. This pin goes through the smaller top hole.

Our experience is that some non-electric 98 pins fit perfectly, and some fit tightly. This is because some non-electric 98's use slightly larger pins. This difference in pin size can make sliding the pin through difficult. If your 98 has a bigger pin we suggest using a small round metal file to just open up the hole a bit. The objective is to have the trigger move freely on the pin, but not be sloppy. Drilling the the hole could make the fit too loose, but filing it lets you open up the hole to exactly the right size. A small round file can be purchased a any hardware store for just a few dollars. If you cant get a file, I found that just working the pin back and forth through the hole can help, as well as using a little oil.

3. Non-electronic 98 users will also need to remove the small clip and spring from the back of your stock trigger.

To remove the clip and spring from your stock trigger, compress the clip with one hand, and push the pin out with your other hand. The pin should just slide out.

To install the clip back on to your fang trigger just slide it into position, compress the spring until the hole in the clip lines up with the hole in the trigger, and slide the pin back through. You may need to use a hammer to get the pin through your fang trigger. If this is the case, "just tap it."

4. With the clip installed its time to install the Fang into your marker. At this point I want you to notice three things about the picture below.

1. I have removed the Post Travel Set Screw because non-electric 98's trigger pull needs to be longer in order to release the hammer. So using this set screw is not really necessary. But, you could try using it if you want.

2. I have removed the Microswitch Set Screw as well. We do not have an electronic microswitch, so we don't need this set screw at all.

3. I have replaced the stock return spring with a lighter spring. I am using a standard ink pen spring that I cut to the same length as the stock spring. On the non-electronic 98's you need to have some type of spring here, and a lighter spring makes the trigger feel much nicer.

5. The adjustment that you can do is to the set screw that is just above the safety.

This "Pre-Travel Set Screw" allows you to adjust the trigger to be closer to the sear release point. That is, the point at which the gun fires. To adjust this screw properly, it can take a few attempts. The way I do it is I push the sear forward to how far the clip is away from it. Pushing the sear forward simulates the gun being cocked and ready to fire.

I then adjust the set screw in (clockwise) if I want the the clip to be closer to the sear, and out (counter clockwise) if I want them further apart.

This adjustment basically takes the slop out of the forward movement of the trigger.

Its been my experience that getting this adjustment perfect can take some trial and error. Meaning that your first adjustment may be too close, and the trigger may not re-set properly or the safety may not work. You can only really know this with the gun back together, and air on the gun.

If this is the case, you will need to open up the gun again and re-adjust the trigger. It took me about 3 attempts to get mine perfect. The objective is to have the safety work, and the trigger resets correctly. If you didn't care about having a safety then you might be able attain a shorter trigger pull.

6. Once you have that set screw adjusted you are pretty much ready to go. You can put your 98 back together and try it out. As you put your body halves back together pay close attention to the trigger in relation to the body. I have noticed that on some Tippmann's the body halves can pinch the trigger. Especially on those that have Tippmann's Camo finish, or any other added finish to the outside of the gun.This added finish take room away from the trigger slot, and can cause the trigger to bind. I have found that loosening the two body screws closest to the trigger can free up the trigger. If you feel pretty handy you could use a metal file to make the fit even better.

If you are using the Fang Trigger with the Response Trigger you may need to file down the reactive trigger pin that pushes the trigger forward. I have gotten it to work well with the Fang, but it did take some more custom fitting. Again, we have found a good bit of variation between trigger kits, and success is greatly based on your ability to customize your marker.

Overall just look at how your marker is working, and make changes that will improve the possible fit.

Final Thoughts

The main thing I have come to realize about 98's is that everyone is different. I knew that there was going to be differences between guns, and designed the trigger using 5 different 98's. We designed the Fang to work and fit on all of these as best we could. Over time we have realized that Tippmann's tolerances are extremely loose. Meaning that some of their pin sizes differ from gun to gun. Their pin placement differs from gun to gun. And the width between the two body half's that the trigger comes out of varies from gun to gun.

All this means that installing this trigger may take some custom fitting on your part. The perfect trigger has a snug, but free moving fit. We have done our best to achieve this for every gun. However, remember that you are installing this trigger onto a $100 marker that has a dye cast body. This means that each marker will vary a bit in dimension, and a good fit is based on luck of the draw, and how much time you put in to making it fit perfectly to your marker.

I hope that your installation goes well, and hope that these instructions have helped. And most importantly I hope your trigger works really well for you. If you have any questions or concerns please let me know. Please contact me at todd@techtpaintball.com

Thanks for your support,

Todd

TechT Paintball