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A5, A5 and 98 Hair Pin Trigger Kit Installation Instructions

The Hair Pin Trigger Kit is designed to make the trigger of any Tippmann marker faster to respond to a trigger pull, require less force to release the hammer, and make the over all feel of the trigger much snappier.

Basically we are replacing the pins in the trigger mechanism to reduce the amount of contact there is between the sear and hammer, and reduce the amount of movement that the trigger has. Together these attributes allow for higher rates of fire and a more response trigger.

With the A5 or X7 as you can see in this image, we replace the "Trigger Stop Pin" with either the # 0 or or # 1, and the "Bottom Sear Stop Pin" with either the # 2, # 3 or # 4 pin. In the body of the 98 it's the same idea.

If you go too large with the "Trigger Stop Pin" the trigger will either not actuate the hammer (fire the gun) or not reset the trigger after each shot.

If you go too large on the "Bottom Sear Stop Pin" the gun will go into out of control "full auto" mode. Not good.

In efforts to set this up correctly there is a certain order you must do these modifications. To REALLY fine tune the setup, it may require that you change out the pins a few times.....but with patience....you'll find the perfect set-up.

A5/X7 Install

1. Remove gas and paint from your marker.

2. A5 and X7 -Remove the pins that hold the trigger frame to the marker. Remove the safety so that you can pull out the trigger mechanism. Pull out the trigger mechanism from the trigger frame.

98 Customs- Seperate the two body halves to access the markers internals.

When opening up the 98 or the A5/X7 trigger mechanism always work on the right hand side of the trigger assybly/body halves. Meaning, if you shoulder and aim the marker as normal, the right hand side of the marker should be laying on your work surface. Pull off the left hand side plate/body half so that your trigger mechanism looks like the image above.

3. Remove your stock "Bottom Sear Stop Pin" (see image above to see what pin this is) and replace it with one from the kit. Now at this point you have options. You can either put the largest one in or the smallest. Its up to you. I like to start at the biggest. Most guns can handle it....but it will put more stress on your sear. Meaning...it could wear out your sear and hammer sooner .....perhaps not though. Basically the larger the pin used, the more aggressive the trigger will be.

4. With a pins selected for your Bottom Sear Stop, put the marker back together and test fire the marker. Now I know that we only put one pin in at this point, but that's because we want to fine tune the sear and hammer contact before we start limiting the trigger movement.

5. Before you fire, plug up your barrel for safety and noise reduction, air up the marker with NO PAINT, and try to fire. Keep in mind that your marker could go full auto here....so be ready to pull back your cocking handle to stop the marker if that happens.

6. If you marker goes full auto, pull it back apart and use the next size down and retest. If you started with a smaller pin, if it shot normally, you could potentially go up a size if there is one. Its now that you just take some time putting in different pins and seeing hows its changed the feel of the marker. If you have a normal mechanical trigger or an RT trigger on your tippmann, you guys are going to feel the highest degree of results from the pins. If I were you I would use the biggest pins possible in both the sear stop and trigger stop. But thats because I like to shoot as fast as possible.

7. If the marker shot fine and you are happy with your sear pin selection, now we can try to limit the trigger travel. If you have a trigger like our Fang Trigger that has set screws to limit the trigger movement, you may not need the trigger stop pin. If your trigger does not have set screws then you will probably want to replace the pin with one from this kit.

8. To do this, remove your air and paint from the barrel and marker. Pull out your trigger mechanism again. Remove the stock trigger stop pin, and replace it with the smallest pin in the kit. Again...you could start bigger than that....but I have found that the # 0 works on most all guns, and the # 1 works on some guns here. I couldn't get the # 2 to work on my markers, but yours could be different. Basically, if you replace the pin and the gun fires, you could potentially go up a size, if it won't fire....you need to go down a size here. Its really trial and error to see what works best with your marker. With all little time and patience ...you'll have a sweet trigger pull.

9. If you are using a egrip, you might be able to reduce your dwell by some number. Again ...trial and error here. Each gun is different. To fine tune your dwell just go out and play with your normal dwell setting. Then after each game you play with no sear release issues, lower your dwell by one adjustment. Go play another game. If you marker continued to fire normally, after the game adjust it down one more adjustment. Continue to do this until the marker has trouble shooting because the dwell is so low. If the dwell is too low the when you pull the trigger the gun will not fire, it will just make a slight clciking noise. This is because the solenoid is not being activated for a long enough amount of time....so up your dwell by one or two. To help future players let me know what pins and setting worked best for you. Ill post them here. Please email them to me at todd@techtpaintball.com

If you feel like I left something out or stated something that you don't understand please let me know.

Thanks Guys,
Todd


TechT


 


STEP 1

If you are thinking about purchasing the Hair Pins, be sure that you pick up a Vortex Mod as well. All of our Cyclone Upgrades are meant to be used together, but you can peice them together on at a time. The Vortex Mod is the first upgrade you should do, and then follow it up with the Lightening Rod and the QEPH. Click on the image of the Vortex Mod for more info.

$34.99


Step 2

If you are thinking about upgrading your cyclone don't forget picking up a Lightening Rod. The three parts are meant to be used together. Click on the image of the Lightening Rod for more info.

$24.99

 

Step 3

The QEPH is the last part you should upgrade on your cyclone. It adds even more speed and efficientcy to the entire process.

Select Your QEPH Color

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I tested every grease available before I decided to make this grease. Other greases just don't cling to the parts like this stuff.

For months now we have offered this grease to our most trusted dealers. Everyone of them has agreed that this is better than ANY grease they have ever used. If this wasn't the case, I would not have offered the grease for sale to the public. I don't want to just make another product, I want to only make the best products.

That's just how I roll.

Try some....you'll love it. Its perfect for lubing up your Tippmann.

TechT Gun Sav - 1oz Tub

$9.99

 

 
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